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Wines

Reader, there have been many, many discussion of wine through the years - which it's a favorite topic of Lissuns. You are invited to peruse the Patrick O'Brian Discussion Archives for wine and related topics.

Len Evans' "Theory of Capacity" - Ian Watkins
Cranberry-Champagne Sparkler - Alice Gomez
Kyle Lerfald's Favorite Saint
Dessert Wines
             Peter Mackay
             Michael Mayer
             Shelley
Christmas Wines for the Gunroom - Reserved Pillock
Favorite Wine - Dave Phillips
Sherry
             Lawrence Edwards
             Michael Mayer
             Bronx - Kevin Danks
Horse's Neck / Admiral's Flip
             Admiral's Flip - Theo Gazulis
             Admiral's Flip - John Drouot
             Horse's Neck - C. Mark Smith
             Horse's Neck - Martin Watts
Mimosa - C. Mark Smith
Hot Mulled Wine - Alice Gomez
Non-traditional Wines
             Cranberry Wine
                         Bruce Trinque
                         Rowen
             Rhubarb Wine
                         Bruce Trinque
                         Kyle Lerfald
             Dandelion Wine - Gerry Strey
             Garlic Wine - Gary McCormick
             Hardwood Wines - Kevin Danks
             Ratafia
 

Claret (opens in a new page)

Eiswein (opens in a new page)
 

Len Evans' "Theory of Capacity" - Ian Watkins
One of our [in Oz] wine writers/judges/raconteurs a Len Evans' died yesterday. In remembrance I picked up and started re-reading one of his books called 'Indulgences.' In it I came across his theory of capacity: which I would like to share with you.
- There is an awful lot of wine in the world, but there is also a lot of awful wine.
- No sensible person drinks to excess, therefore any one person can only drink a certain amount of wine in a lifetime.
- There are countless flavours, nuances, shades of wine; endless varieties, regions, styles. You have neither the time nor the capacity to try them all.
- To make the most of the time you have left, you must start by calculating your total future capacity. One bottle a day is 365 bottles per year. If your life expectancy is another 30 years then there are only 10,000-odd bottles ahead of you.
- People who say, "You can't drink the good stuff all the time" are talking rubbish. You must drink good stuff all the time. Each time you drink a bottle of inferior wine it is like taking a superior bottle and smashing it on the
wall. The pleasure is lost forever - you can't get that bottle back.
- There are people who build up huge cellars, most of which they have no hope of drinking. They are foolish in over-estimating their capacity but they err on the right side and their friends love them.
- There are people who don't want to drink good wine, and are quite happy with the cheapies. I forgive them. There are others who are content with beer and spirits.; I cant worry about everybody.
- Wine is not meant to be enjoyed for it's own sake; it is the key to love and laughter with your friends, to the enjoyment of food, beauty, humour and art and music. Its rewards are far beyond cost.
- What part is wine of your life? Ten per centum: Ergo, 10 per cent of you income should be spent on wine.
- The principle should be applied to other phases of life. A disciple kissed a beautiful young lady and she demurred. He was aghast, and said: "Don't get the wrong idea. I've worked out I can only make love another 1343 times. I'm bloody sure I'm not wasting one on you!"
Jack summed it up 'Waste not a minute!'

Cranberry-Champagne Sparkler - Alice Gomez
1 12-ounce package cranberries (about 3 cups)
1 lemon
3/4 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
4 inches stick cinnamon, broken
5 whole cloves
1 Tablespoon snipped fresh sage or 1 teaspoon dried sage, crushed
1/2 cup honey
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 cups ice cubes
1 750 ml bottle champagne
fresh sage leaves (optional)

1. Reserve 1/3 cup of the cranberries; set remainder aside. With a vegetable peeler, remove strips of peel from the cranberries (no, not really) - remove strips of peel from the lemon. In a medium saucepan combine water, sugar, strips of lemon peel, stick cinnamon, whole cloves, and snipped sage. Bring to boiling, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add the remaining 2 2/3 cups cranberries. Return just to boiling, stirring with a wooden spoon. Reduce heat. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes.
2. Remove cranberry mixture from heat. Cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Stir in honey and lemon juice. Press mixture through a sieve placed over a bowl. Discard solids (or eat them!). Cover and chill syrup until ready to use, at least 1 hour or up to 3 days.
3. To serve, in a small punch bowl or pitcher combine the cranberry syrup and ice cubes. Slowly add champagne. (This is where I'd probably pour some syrup in a glass and add a little vodka.) Stir gently. Place 1 or 2 reserved cranberries and/or a sage leaf into individual glasses or cups if desired. Ladle champagne mixture into the glasses. Makes about 8 (6-ounce) servings.
(From Better Homes and Gardens, February 2001.)

Kyle Lerfald's Favorite Saint
St. Emilion!
To my mind, the finest saint in the calendar!

Dessert Wines
Peter Mackay
Rutherglen makes a superb tokay as well, for those interested in dessert wines.

Michael Mayer
And the liqueur muscats (Brown Brothers, Baileys of Glenrowan, Morris) - world class fortifieds.

Shelley
For a different treat you might also consider an ice wine. This is wine make from grapes that have frozen on the vine, sweet, rich taste and another after dinner drink.

Christmas Wines for the Gunroom - Reserved Pillock
Killick, rouse out these bottles for our guests. Look alive there and bear a hand. Use this list.
Patrick O'Brian: Chateau Canon 1985, St. Emilion
Jack Aubrey: Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 1975, Graves
Stephen Maturin: Chateau l'Angelus 1989, St. Emilion
Diana Villiers, Chateau Beauregard 1989, Pomerol
Sophie Aubrey, Chateau La Conseillante 1982, Pomerol
Mr. Martin, Chateau Le Bon Pasteur 1986, Pomerol
Mr. Wray , Chateau Chasse-Spleen 1989, Pomerol
Mr. Leward, Chateau La Fleur de Gay, 1990, Pomerol

Yes Killick, the Latour '61 for me.

Favorite Wine - Dave Phillips
My neighbor and I say "Anyone can get a good bottle of wine for $50, what's hard is getting a good bottle for less than $10."
My current favorite in that price range (now in my fifth case, we like it so much) is Santa Julia Cabernet Sauvignon, an Argentinean vineyard. $7.99/bottle, $82/case.
It might be Chilean...

Sherry
Lawrence Edwards
Whilst on the subject of drink, a much under-rated drink IMO is Sherry. I know it hasn't been fashionable for some time, but I believe it may well come back into fashion. A nice chilled fino before a meal is unbeatable.

Michael Mayer
If you are looking for a pre-dinner sherry, then Tio Pepe, and not one that has been sitting on the shelves for ages. And drink it within a week of opening. But that is bone dry and wasted on those who are not serious. Try an amontillado or oloroso for a fuller body. Go to a good wine shop and ask their advice.

Bronx - Kevin Danks
Perhaps Admiral Boyle would order a "Bronx", to remind him of the large numbers of his former countrymen (and probably his grand-daddy's tenants...) living in the fair city of New York:
1/3rd glass gin
1/3rd glass French vermouth
1/3rd glass Italian vermouth
1/6th glass orange juice
Shake. Serve in a cocktail glass

Horse's Neck / Admiral's Flip
Admiral's Flip - Theo Gazulis
... it is "Admiral's flip" (in Treason's Harbor, I believe) that is half champagne and half brandy. A more contemporary flip is:
2 oz Brandy
1 Egg
1 tsp Superfine Sugar
1/2 oz Light Cream
Garnish: 1/4 tsp Nutmeg
Glassware : Sour Glass
Shake all the ingredients in a shaker with ice cubes and strain into a highball glass over crushed ice. Stir and garnish with nutmeg.

Admiral's Flip - John Drouot
From Lobscouse and Spotted Dog, by Lisa Grossman Thomas and Anne Grossman:
Half cup chilled brandy; One and a half cups champagne (clearly admirals don't drink beer); 2 tablespoons of sugar; a whole nutmeg.
Combine the brandy and sugar and stir well to dissolve. Add champagne, dust with nutmeg. Lisa and Anne note that "the proportions for this drink seem somewhat arbitrary. We did not find the half-and-half combination especially palatable". They also observe that this is not a true "flip" as it is not flipped and refer us to the recipe for flip proper. This involves eggs, butter and sherry.

Horse's Neck - C. Mark Smith
This sounds remarkable like a Horse's Neck, the favored drink of Douglas Reeman's main character in his book "Battlecruiser". In a rock's glass over a bed of ice cubes, pour a jigger of brandy (some use blended whiskey), fill with ginger ale, add a lemon peel and two dashes of Angostura bitters. Stir and enjoy.

Horse's Neck - Martin Watts
4 doses of Ginger Ale
1 dose of Brandy
A dash of Angostura
Serve in a tumbler (highball)
Prepare in Glass
How to prepare: Peel the rind of a lemon in a spiral. Attach it to the top of the glass so that the remainder curls inside. Fill with ice. Pour brandy, then ginger ale, and finally add a dash of angostura.

Mimosa - C. Mark Smith
Champagne and orange juice in equal proportions.

Hot Mulled Wine - Alice Gomez
3 bottles Red Bordeaux or California Cabernet Sauvignon
2 quarts water
Dash of Angostura Bitters
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 tablespoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
8 - 10 whole cloves
A few pieces of lemon rind
Heat all ingredients together. Serve in glasses or cups. Makes 25 drinks.

Non-traditional Wines
Cranberry Wine - Bruce Trinque
...there may very well be such a thing as a good cranberry wine but, alas, the product of only one Massachusetts cranberry winery ever crossed our table and it was truly sad stuff.

Rowen
Cranberry, Strawberry, Cherry, Peach, Rhubarb - aka Piestengel, Grape, Elderberry, Honey, Dandelion, you name it, one of the Amana wineries will have it.

Rhubarb Wine - Bruce Trinque
Rhubarb wine? Although I am a great admirer of rhubarb pie, my imagination fails when it comes to rhubarb wine. This ... this is one I may have to track down and sample.

Kyle Lerfald
Oh do! Do! The good stuff is a balm, and the horrid stuff still ain't bad over vanilla ice cream.

Dandelion Wine - Gerry Strey
I once owned a book on amateur wine-making published in England, and what struck me most forcibly was that virtually anything in the vegetable kingdom was fair game.
Besides familiar fruits, the list included parsnips, pea pods, tea leaves, and onions. Since many of these ingredients lacked the essential natural sugar and acids, all the formulas called for the addition of cane sugar and lemon or orange juice.
When my mother was a little girl in the teens of the last century, her family made dandelion wine, and her memories of the tedious picking of the flowers, the removal of every bit of green, and worst of all the lavish use of oranges, oranges which she and her siblings received only as a treat at Christmas, are not warm.
As a POB tie-in, please to remember the vile mixtures passed off on impecunious young officers as claret and port.

Garlic Wine - Gary McCormick
Rappazini Winery in Gilroy, CA - the self-styled "Garlic Capital of the World" - produces a garlic wine; which I have on good authority is only to be partaken of by the most besotted of garlic aficionados!

Hardwood Wines - Kevin Danks
There is a shop at Lulworth Cove, about 25 miles west of here, that sells an amazing range of commercially produced country wines and about half a dozen different types of mead. Two of my favourites are Oak Leaf wine, which is virtually colourless and very dry, and Birch Bark wine, which is possibly even drier.

Ratafia
A sweet French aperitif made from a mixture of unfermented grape juice and brandy. The best known are Ratafia de Bourgogne and Ratafia de Champagne. Ratafia is similar to the better-known pineau des charentes.